Why are so many famous chefs opening restaurants in Singapore's new hotels?

 

Why are so many famous chefs opening restaurants in Singapore's new hotels?

From Michelin-starred Dutch chef Sergio Herman to popular French pastry chef Cedric Grolet and sustainable cooking upstart Josh Niland, the dining scene in Singapore’s hotels is exploding with gastronomic headliners.

Why are so many famous chefs opening restaurants in Singapore's new hotels?

From left: Cedric Grolet, Josh Niland and Sergio Herman. (Photos: Aik Chen/8 Days, The Edition Singapore & Sergio Herman Group)


By Karen Tee
19 Apr 2024 05:11AM (Updated: 19 Apr 2024 06:56AM)

You have probably been living under a rock if you have not noticed a slew of new hotels opening in Singapore recently. From the sleek The Singapore Edition to the green urban jungle that is Pan Pacific Orchard and trendy Mondrian Singapore Duxton, this city has seen an influx of cool new digs for travellers – and staycationers.

To make things even more exciting, these hotel openings have also drawn an impressive list of highly lauded, well-known chefs to our shores. There is French pastry chef Cedric Grolet’s patisserie of flaky, buttery croissant fame as well as the first international outpost of New York-based Michelin-starred Cote Korean Steakhouse at Como Orchard. 

At Artyzen Singapore, Victor Liong of the Two Hatted Lee Ho Fook in Melbourne has launched Quenino, a degustation-only contemporary Asian restaurant while over at Mondrian Singapore, master butcher Dario Cecchini who starred in Netflix’s Chef’s Table has an Italian restaurant Bottega di Carna.

And in the third quarter of the year, acclaimed Dutch chef Sergio Herman, who has a slew of Michelin stars to his name, is set to launch La Pristine at the newly refurbished Grand Hyatt Singapore.

Chef Sergio Herman. (Photo: Sergio Herman Group)

All of this means the cost of fancy dining in Singapore is likely to rise even further but it also cements the little red dot’s reputation as an internationally renowned culinary hub that offers a diverse range of top-notch fine cuisine.

“As Singapore continues to attract discerning travellers and local epicurean enthusiasts alike, collaborations between respected chefs and upscale hotel establishments offer an elevated dining experience that celebrates innovation, creativity and culinary excellence,” said Martha Waslen, founder and chief executive officer of digital lifestyle membership platform DayAway, which offers members curated dining perks.

She added: “Partnering with celebrity chefs adds a prestigious element to the hotel's dining offerings, differentiating them from competitors and driving revenue. Hotels also leverage the chefs' fan base and international reputation to draw attention to their properties.”

FYSH at EDITION. (Photo: The Edition Singapore)
Josh Niland is the poster child for eating the whole fish — guts and all. (Photo: Alan Benson)

Take for instance buzzy Aussie chef Josh Niland, who was awarded Chef of the Year from the Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2024. He partnered with The Singapore Edition to launch “seafood-focused steakhouse” FYSH.

“Singapore has one of the most exciting restaurant scenes in the world, which is the reason so many people want to open here. For us, it is also the ideal location, the gateway to connect to the world beyond Australia,” said Niland.  “We can reach many more guests with Singapore's international draw and the hotel operation offers multiple opportunities in a way a stand-alone restaurant would not.”

Ranim Ben Romdhane, general manager of The Singapore Edition, sees this as a win-win partnership. He said: “This strategic move responds to the increasing demand from discerning travellers, particularly food enthusiasts, for exceptional culinary offerings during their hotel stays. It presents significant opportunities for hotels to establish themselves as top culinary destinations and enhance their overall guest satisfaction in Singapore's vibrant hospitality landscape.”

Zuicho Singapore is helmed by chef Kenji Takahasi. (Photo: Klaus Tan)

In Singapore’s ultra-competitive food and beverage industry, teaming up with a like-minded luxury hotel also increases a restaurant’s chances of long-term success, observed Luke Clayton, founder of WA Creations, which owns and operates the Japanese kappo omakase restaurant Zuicho at the newly refurbished Mandarin Oriental Singapore.

Zuicho Singapore is an offshoot of the Michelin-starred restaurant of the same name in Hong Kong. The group has other restaurants with the Mandarin Oriental Group, such as the three-starred Sushi Shikon at the Landmark Mandarin in Hong Kong and Sushi Shin by Miyakawa at Mandarin Oriental Tokyo, hence paving the way for their entry into Singapore.

Rice with Teriyaki Salmon and Salmon Roe. (Photo: Zuicho Singapore)

“Hotel guests are naturally potential guests and likely to be interested in dining at high-end destinations. We can also collaborate with the hotel for exciting events and work with the hotel's marketing teams to leverage their social media presence to increase awareness of our restaurant brands,” observed Clayton.

At the same time, expectations for an exceptional dining experience at these establishments are sky high, which means more pressure on the restaurants and hotels. This is especially so in an uncertain economic climate when consumers become more cautious with their spending.

“Customers become more discerning about the value they receive for their money,” said Waslen. “While they may still be willing to splurge on dining experiences, they expect exceptional quality, top-level service, and overall value. High-end establishments must ensure they meet these expectations to justify their premium pricing.”

That is why no expense has been spared to launch the intimate Zuicho Singapore, which seats just nine at its counter. Kappo cuisine is distinctive for how chefs interact with their guests while preparing and cooking each course, so the quality of interactions between chef and guests can often make or break a restaurant.

The Singapore outpost is helmed by respected Japanese chef Kenji Takahashi of Tokyo’s Yoshifuku, which garnered one Michelin star for nine consecutive years. He shuttered his Ginza restaurant to relocate to Singapore to take on a “new challenge” of showcasing his take on authentic Japanese cuisine to a crowd that is already well known for its love for the land of the rising sun.

The initial response has been positive, Takahashi observed. He said, “Singaporeans and overseas travellers have a genuine interest in Japanese cuisine. I appreciate their candid feedback and their interest in the ingredients and varied cooking techniques used for every dish.”

In the words of Clayton: “Be beyond great or be forgotten.”

Indeed, over time, there is potential for outstanding F&B concepts to be so indelibly linked to their venue that even when a hotel building is rebranded, the restaurant remains as a mainstay that anchors the space.

One Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant Summer Palace. (Photo: Conrad Singapore Orchard)
(Photo: Conrad Singapore Orchard)

Case in point: When Conrad Singapore Orchard took over and overhauled the premises of the former Regent Singapore, the team decided to retain its existing concepts, which include the one Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant Summer Palace by executive Chinese chef Liu Ching Hai and Manhattan, which was ranked 21 on the Asia’s 50 Best Bars list in 2023.

Oscar Postma, cluster operations general manager of Conrad Singapore Orchard, said these iconic establishments help to “significantly bolster” the hotel’s standing as a culinary tourism destination.“They are landmarks in their own right, integral to the fabric of our hotel's identity and the exceptional culinary experiences we are known for. With our hotel's transformation, it was important to honour the legacy we have built, including our reputation as a premier destination for gastronomy,” he said. 

Taking an entirely different tact, one of Orchard Road’s grand dames, the Grand Hyatt Singapore, is set to reopen with a bang in the third quarter of the year with a new slate of F&B offerings. In place of Mezza9, which was once a dining hotspot along the shopping strip, acclaimed Dutch chef Sergio Herman will be launching a branch of his casual fine dining restaurant Le Pristine.

“Hyatt is a professional organisation and they have been offering great support to us. It was important to me to get that dynamic and synergy right to launch in Asia,” said Herman, who also recently debuted Le Pristine in Asia at Tokyo’s Hotel Toranomon Hills, part of The Unbound Collection by Hyatt.

In an era of globalised gastronomy where it is easy for celebrity chefs to lend their names without much commitment, Herman says he plans to set a different tone by taking a hands-on approach to his Singapore outpost. The local menu will include classic dishes from Le Pristine in Antwerp as well as dishes that incorporate local flavours and ingredients.

“We intend to play around with Singapore's taste palate, like crafting ravioli with chili crab. I am also looking forward to spending more time in Singapore once the restaurant opens, to create team spirit and work on new menus with the team.”